Saturday, June 30, 2018

SIDE SEAM WITH POCKET & INVISIBLE ZIP INSTALLATION



This tutorial was built to address one of the more difficult aspects of the construction of our Dress 47.  I'm fairly confident though when you complete your side seam pocket and zipper installation you'll be so surprised at how easy and smooth it is!

Let's do it!

We recommend using a 30cm (12") invisible zipper.  We will be attaching our invisible zipper to the left side of the garment.  

Join one of the remaining POCKETS to the FRONT SKIRT at the notches, RSF, with a 1 cm (3/8") seam allowance.  This stitch should travel from notch to notch.  

Flip the pocket out, pressing the seam allowance toward the pocket.  



Join the remaining pocket bag to the secured pocket bag, RSF, with a 1 cm (3/8") seam allowance.  Do not get any of the skirt in this stitch.


Turn the pocket bag over to lay on the right side of the FRONT SKIRT.  Create clips in the seam allowance just above the stitch line.  Be careful not to clip more than 1 cm (3/8")


Turn the pocket bag to lay on the wrong side of the FRONT SKIRT, allowing the seam allowance to lay out flat.  




Align the zipper with the seam allowance, RSF.  The top of the zipper tape should land where the dot marking on the FRONT BODICE is.  The right side of the tape should lay against the right side of the fabric.  Join the zipper to the skirt from the zip start to the zip stop, careful not to close off the pocket hole.  Test the zipper to ensure it works correctly before continuing.


Match the other side of the zipper tale to the BACK BODICE and SKIRT, RSF.  The zip pull should lay against the right side of the fabric.  Join the zipper tape to the dress along the length and very close to the zipper teeth just as you did in the previous step.  Once again ensure the zipper works correctly before continuing.


Join the front of the dress to the back of the dress along the side seam from the top stop of the zipper tape to the bottom stop of the zipper to the hem.  Neaten the seam allowance




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