Monday, June 20, 2016

Havanna Shorts - Waistband

Ready to make the most comfortable waistband ever!  Oh yeah!  
 oh....wow..... how life's thrills have managed to evolve.    



What you will need
The Havanna Short Pattern and Tutorial - of course
two 1/4" grommets (or an appropriate size for the project you are working on)
grommet tools (appropriately sized)
a hammer
1.25" drawcord elastic
Before we jump in, you will need to have completed all other basic instruction from the Havanna Shorts Tutorial.  For example - you've folded and pressed one side of the waistband 1 cm (3/8").  You've also secured the waistband to the short.  Ready. Set. Go.
STEP 1
Keep in mind there are grommet presses and grommet pliers available at $$.  This tutorial should have all you need to know about installing grommets without either...  Just the simple grommet tools which come included on most smaller sizes grommet packages will do.  For a few dollars you can add tons of grommets to whatever you want grommetized!
LET'S BEGIN
 You've transferred your pattern marking to the fabric, which means you've got grommet placement settled!
 Now you need to cut small slits into the fabric centered on where the grommet will be placed.  I like to cut little X's.  This is pivotal in allowing the fabric to avoid stretching, tugging, pulling or ripping.  Careful not to make the cuts too big!
Grommets come in two bits.  The male bit (index finger) and the female bit (middle finger).  
 
The bits will go together just so.  The male bit is visible on the female side once it is joined to the female bit.  Right away, this tells us that the side with this view will need to be on the "wrong side" of the fabric. Keep that in mind.
So that means, you will want to set the male bit, wrong side, to the right side of the fabric, through the little hole you made.  It should just fit.  If its pulling or stretching or is difficult to fit through cut away a few threads.
Place the female bit over the male bit with the fabric in between.  The female bit will be on the "wrong side" of the fabric.
See that black thing...I've researched and apparently...it's a thingy.  This thingy has an indent where you will want to place the side of the grommet which is on the "right side" of the fabric. 
See this thingy...it is also a thingy.....  And this thingy is important! 
Set your fabric, with grommets and thingy #1 down.  Don't let anything get off kilter.  Apply the thingy #2 to the female side of the grommet. 
With everything lined up as so, get your hammer and give it a few tap taps. 
Check it..  The male grommet bits should have splayed out to secure itself in place.  
Oh my....that's nice, isn't it.  
STEP 2
 Drawcord elastic!  Oh JOY! 
Cut yours to the appropriate length.  Pull the drawcord out of the elastic and tie off the ends so they don't get sucked back up into the elastic. 
Match up the ends and indicate the length of 2cm from the raw ends.  Ensure the elastic isn't twisted.  
Sew a straight stitch at the indication, above and below the drawcord.  
Unfold the raw ends to meet the elastic band.  Stitch each side in place with a straight stitch, but do not cross the drawcord portion!
Quarter the elastic band.  The sewn seam will mark one quarter of the band.  
All quartered up!
 The center seam will need to meet right in between the grommets on the wrong side of the waistband.  Pin that in place from the right side of the waistband.
Now is your only chance to pull those drawcords through the grommet holes so go on ahead!
Each quartered indication of the elastic will need to match each seam; side seam and back short seam.  Pin in place from the right side of the short.
Stretch each quartered section and pin the elastic to where it will naturally rest when stretched.  Secure all pins from the right side of the waistband.  It's tricky, but just keep working with it and everything will all fall into place!
Once your elastic is secure to the fabric you will now need to turn the top edge of the waistband over the elastic.  The folded edge will need to lay past the waistband/short seam.  Also, and super important, the seam allowance from the waistband/short needs to lay over the elastic.  When we close everything up we do not want the elastic edge sticking out and it will if it's not behind that seam allowance.
For this step I like to pin the folded edge in place on the "wrong side" of the waistband.  Later I pin from the "right side" and remove the pins on the "wrong side".
If you have a thousand pins secured into waistband then you're on the right path!  Here's a view on the right side of the short.
Here's a view from the inside of the short.
Time to get rid of these pins!  
We will be applying two top stitches, one 1/2 cm (1/4") above the waistband/short seam, and one 1/2 cm (1/4") below the top of the waistband edge. These stitches need to be sewn with a straight stitch while simultaneously stretching the fabric and elastic to it's extent. Start with the bottom stitch and remove the pins which are holding the folded end in place while you go.  Apply these stitches through the "right side" of the shorts.  Keep the pins which are securing the elastic to the fabric in place!  You will need those for the second topstitch.
With an excessive amount of steam, blast the waistband to help the fabric around the elastic relax and mould into place.
Dang....I totally nailed that!
Oh....We're all done I guess.  How'd you do?  
 
Don't forget to share how awesome you are with our convenient hashtag -  #HAVANNASHORTS

xo,
Sarah
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